I was thirteen or fourteen when the surfing bug first hit me. It had been a long time since my Dad was on the surfing scene, but he was willing to teach me whatever he could remember from those days. We borrowed a few of my Uncle’s boards and headed out. The boards were completely wrong for us and it made learning incredibly difficult. However, after catching a few waves, I was hooked.
1 comment:
those are gorgeous old school logs. The green argyle looking one is especially nice. i wish I had one for my surf trip next week.
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